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Grant leads all of us with the exception of TJ as we catch up, Jensen speaks "American," JB recaps his adventures down under!!! 

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Fine Molds has added new tooled sprues to their 72nd scale F-104 kit to transform it into the "G" model of arguably the West German Luftwaffe's most famous fighter. Details in our preview...Read on... »

Updated details of MiniArt's new 1/48th-scale Focke-Wulf FW 190D-11 (basic kit). We add sprue layout, decals & colour profiles to the CADs, art, features & the real kites in our preview...Read on... »

Like my good friend here Mark Duke Maddog, I am going to start an all subject build thread here to keep on rolling with whatever my ongoing project(s) will be. I’m gonna lead off with this one My latest resurrection project from the Shelf of Doom… I started this for a So.Cal AMPS Panzer IV GB about 10 years ago I was going to replace the kit tracks with some AM tracks and eventually settled on some Modelkasten indy links Since I wanted to do a DAK Panzer I decided to replace the crew figures with a set from Verlinden and the kit decals are replaced by a set from Bison I got most of the basic assembly finished, but then hit a snag when I tried to fit the AM tracks to the kit sprockets. The sprockets were too wide as engineered. So I put it onto the shelf of doom after getting this much completed So yesterday I decided to pull this one off the shelf and tackled the reason for the stop first. I cut the sprockets in half, sanded away some of the middle section until they would fit the MK tracks, then glued them back together. Then a test fit onto the lower hull This won’t be my main project, but I will be chipping away at it for the next while until it is finished.

The hobby is drowning in great choices right now, and that’s both a gift and a trap. We talk through what “superabundance” really looks like in modern scale modeling: a flood of high-quality plastic model kits, aftermarket decals, 3D printed parts, and specialized paint and weathering products that would’ve felt impossible a couple decades ago. Using examples like the suddenly crowded field of 1/72 P-40B kits, we dig into why the golden age of modeling is real, and how it can still leave you stuck staring at options instead of making progress. 

We also share listener-driven updates and community news as the IPMS Nationals get closer, including travel plans, meetups, and the behind-the-scenes effort it takes to host fellow modelers while your house and hobby room are mid-remodel. On the community side, we’re pushing toward a better home for long-term reference content, so great builds and tips don’t disappear into the Facebook timeline. If you’ve been following the Dojo build content, we also talk about improving visibility and inviting more Q and A with builders. 

Then we go hands-on with one of the most common problem areas in aircraft modeling: clear parts and canopies. We cover practical techniques like using a micro razor saw to avoid cracking brittle clear plastic, choosing the right adhesive (and why some “clear” glues can still be tricky), and how careful sanding and test fitting before you glue can prevent gaps you’ll hate later. We also debate the big workflow question: when to attach the canopy, and how the answer changes depending on the kit and whether it’s posed open or closed. 

If you enjoy these kinds of deep-dive shop talks, subscribe, share the show with a modeling friend, and leave a quick rating or review. What’s your best tip for avoiding choice paralysis and keeping your mojo on the bench?

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Mike and Kentucky Dave thank each and everyone of you for participating on this journey with us.  

Box Art / Packaging / History

Academy have produced a newly boxed iteration of the 1999 Revell Leopard 1A5, parts are well molded and very little flash was observed. The box art is glossy and depicts artwork of a Leopard in German Markings and NATO Camouflage scheme. The instructions did not give any history of the MBT, but briefly, the Leopard 1A5 was the main service version of the Leopard 1 post 1987 when some 1800 Leopard 1’s were converted to the new variant. The newer variant improved on fire control systems, gun stabilization and night fighting capabilities adding a laser rangefinder and enhanced thermal imaging. Some are indeed in service today in Ukraine.

I believe the Battle of the Coral Sea is vastly underrated and overlooked in its importance, often overshadowed by the imminently more covered Battle of Midway less than a month later. The Battle of the Coral Sea could arguably be more important than Midway, and author Dr Tom Lewis does a fantastic job of not only describing the Battle of the Coral Sea very well, but he also places it where it belongs in history.

I just finished the classic 1/32 Hasagawa Hellcat, first released back in the early '70s. I built it as an F6F-3 on the Princeton and "shot the works" detailing and correcting parts of it. BUT.... the main accomplishment was PAINTING the cat-mouth artwork on the cowling. The interior is a combination of Verlinden resin parts for the floor and side panels and HodgePodge PE parts for the main instrument panel (with film instruments), the seat, and side wall detailing. I also scratchbuilt the engine water injection storage tank behind the cockpit since it would be visable through the -3 side windows. The rudder pedals are HP PE parts (with Grumman on them!) but I had to scratchbuild their frames. The kit only had a hole for the tail wheel, so I scratchbuilt a well for it. The main gear bay detailing mysteriously stopped half-way back in the tire well, so the rear half of each of them needed to be detailed with strip plastic. The wells also needed to be closed off at the rear and their outlines around the tire wells corrected so that there was a curve along their inside edges along the top. You can also see the HP PE gear up-lock hooks added in each well. The kit's aileron hinges were solid blobs so they were cut off and replaced with HP PE actuators that have the proper see-through underside to them. The kit engine is almost a kit in itself and VERY complete for its age. All I did was add plug wire receptacles and ignition cables made from solder wire. The cat-mouth artwork is a combination of masking and painting for the eye and mouth outlines and teeth along with detailing for and around them added using black and red very fine point Sharpie pens. The hardest part wasn't the artwork itself as much as making sure the masking for both sides was even and symmetrical from all angles! The approach light in the leading edge of the wing was added using an MV lens with a clear cover made from packing tape. I scratchbuilt a Mk.VIII gun sight (8 parts!) and also added the bullet proof glass panel behind the windshield that the kit omitted. The dropped flaps and open cowl flaps are a kit option. The kit has indented scribing on the wings and forward fuselage, but I had to scribe in all of rest of the main fuselage and tail panel lines using a razor saw. I added position lights to the rear fuselage above the tail hook and on the fuselage spine. Also note the blue formation light that was drilled, painted, and given a UV cured resin lens top on the outer part of each top wing. The wingtip lights are drilled and painted clear plastic that was then sanded and polished to shape. I also used aftermarket brass .50 gun barrels, each one cut to its proper length. I added brake lines and gear actuator struts to each of the landing gear and also drilled out their scissors links. The tires are aftermarket resin. I also added MV lens IFF lights under the rear fuselage bottom and the -3 landing light under the left wing. All in all this was a fun build that only took me about 3 weeks. It was also nostalgic as I originally built it back in the late '70s. Now I have to figure out if I can get one more built before the Nats! Critiques, comments, and questions welcome as always! Gil

My latest project was a vinyl kit, the Pegasus Triceratops. Even though I've been building models since the mid 1950's (not a typo) this is my first vinyl kit. It was a very enjoyable build!