Modeling the Trumpeter F9F Panther with Teknics Details and Yellowhammer Decals

By  Ed Kinney, IPMS# 2989

This feature discusses building Trumpeter's 1/48 scale F9F-2 and F9F-2P Panther using Teknics Detail Sets and Yellowhammer Decals. Please see these previous reviews on this website for additonal information: · Meteor Webinar Overview. · Teknics 1/48 F9F Panther Update Sets. · Yellowhammer 1/48 F9F Panthers. In this, I will cover the following correction sets, as well as the use of both the Yellowhammer Decal sheets YHD48039 "Hot Cats on Parade" and a set of Black Magic (EBM48575) canopy and wheel hub masks. · TK48026 - corrected Fighter Nose · TK48090 - corrected Camera Nose · TK 48085 - corrected Outer Wing Set · TK48089 - "Down & Dirty" wing and flap set. In the prebuild look-over, it is readily apparent that Trumpeter did not capture accurately the "Shark Snout" appearance of the Panther. Teknics to the rescue with both gun and camera nose replacement parts and as my Brit friends like to say, they are "Bang On". These parts are engineered to replace the kit parts, and in both cases, the fit was perfection. No fillers and only a light sanding were required. Cyano acrylic cement was used to attach these parts. In the case of the photo nose, a representative set of cameras are included that are clearly visible through the clear cast resin camera window. This window was cemented in with cyano acrylic, then sanded and polished. After the fuselage cockpit tub was installed and the halves joined together on the first aircraft, I selected the "Down & Dirty" set to be assembled with the wings extended and the flaps hanging. The fuselage bottom piece that contains the wheel and flapwells was also designed as an exact replacement for the kit furnished parts. Images show that a very slight removal of the shaded areas was required to perfect the fit. This was accomplished by use of a Dremel tool with a coarse sanding drum attached … (This step took all of 30 seconds). After this was done, I found yet another "snap fit" requiring no fillers. The Trumpeter kit is designed to be built with wings either folded or extended and include bracing arms molded in two styles to accommodate the builder's choice. In checking the weight of the wings, which are solid castings, I elected to drill out and extend the areas that mate with these braces for greater strength, particularly in the case of the photo version with the wings folded. I chose to use 5 minute Epoxy to attach these in both cases. In the case of the folded wing version, assuming you had the opportunity to watch and were paying attention during Dave Klaus' Panther Webinar, you'd know that the correct angle for the folds is 66 degrees, and that when assembled, there should be 5.85 inches measured between the tip tanks. Use of a protractor and bevel gauge worked like a charm here. Also, reference the Webinar, Dave covered the fact that the engine "blow in" doors on the kit were incorrectly molded and need to be rescribed. Well, if they need to be rescribed, why not open them? In the case of the Marine Panther, I had already done this before I saw the Webinar and as a result, they are the correct size, but the wrong shape. (I was able to get it right on the photo version, however, which makes my batting average .500 ... Oh well).

In both wing correction sets, the fuel dumps are separate pieces from the tanks and are open, also not correct on the Trumpeter kit parts. The tanks are also cast in the correct shape and length. Further, the sets include beautifully cast resin wing fences, but in this instance, neither of my chosen aircraft were equipped with them. They were in most cases added later in the field, and few land-based Marines, if any, received them. In attaching the wings in extended fashion, again the fit to the kit parts is a non issue. In point of fact, these are most probably one of the simplest aftermarket sets ever engineered and consequently will work for any modeler regardless of skill level. Experience with cyano acrylic cement and resin parts is helpful, but not absolutely necessary. A detailed set of step by step instructions is of course included.

As an interesting side note, I was curious enough to take the old Monogram -5 Panther down from the shelf for comparison purposes. Lo and behold, when the fuselage halves are held up side by side, they are a perfect match except for the tail on the dash 5 which is taller. Hmmm … I guess to copy is the most sincere form of flattery. Another point, which in my opinion is a gross error in the Trumpeter kit, is the rear section of the canopy. There is no "bubble" effect after the break as there is on the real aircraft. Monogram got this right on their version, and not surprisingly, is a perfect replacement for Trumpeters. Even the piece that fits inside this segment is identical. Actually, although I didn't try it, I suspect that if you intended to build the model with the canopy closed, the Trumpeter part would ride on top of the armor plate behind the seat … In any case, problem solved. After priming and painting using auto lacquers, I elected to use the aforementioned Yellowhammer decal sheet that contained markings for the flying scoreboard that flew the most Panther missions in Korea. This aircraft was a Marine dash 2 of VMF 311. The decals are beautifully done, accurate and the thinnest I've encountered. A tip here. Make sure your surfaces are prepared with a high gloss prior to use and when placing them I recommend using only water to get them positioned. They are so thin that brushing the area with any setting solution prior to use can result, due to immediate activation, in tearing or otherwise screwing up the decal during positioning. My choice was to get it properly placed using water, then a light touch with only Micro Set to snuggle them down. They have a "painted on" appearance with no silvering. On this aircraft, the finish was very dull with a streaked appearance. Testors Dullcote and pastels were used here and the result was as the images show, a tired old Panther, taxing in from perhaps its' last mission, bomb and rocket racks empty. It's posed on snow and ice encrusted PSP, with the pilot giving the "thumbs up" sign. Fini! (Veni, vidi, vici??)

Back to photo version, I elected to take things a step further. As images show, I cut the fuselage at the engine break point, and went foraging into my spares stash for goodies. The engine, a Rolls Royce NENE, was taken from the old Monogram P-80 shooting star kit, as was the tail stand dolly. Both were modified to fit the contours of the Panther kit, and bulkheads were scratch built and installed. A scratch built fueling ladder was also constructed using Plastistruct, and when completed, I'll send a photo to the website for posting in the Gallery. I did want to get this review to you in a timely fashion, so I'll conclude this portion of the build segment here, except to again than Dave Klaus of Meteor Productions for the review samples.

This has been an easy and enjoyable build. If you are a Panther fan, these parts are a "must have". Visit their website (www.meteorprod.com) soon. Most highly recommended

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