Converting the 1/32 Revell Ju-88A-1 to the Ju-88G-6 NachtJager (Rod Lees channels Alan W. Hall)

By  Rod Lees, IPMS# 10821

The Revell JU-88A-1 is one of the coolest models I've built in a while. After building one of the standard JU-88A-1's for Ponch at Freedom Hobbies, I determined to build my own. Deciding, that's the easy part. BUT, what do you do when the kit you have does not have the configuration you want? As built out of the box, the '88A-1 is an early Battle of Britain-era aircraft. Shorter wing span, shorter stabilizer, early vertical fin. No external racks for bombs. No bombs. If you want a later version you can spend a lot of money on add-ons; in this case, there are many out there BUT the conversion kits are usually limited run items and, once they are out, they are out. That was the case when I thought about doing this project. There are plenty of nose sections out there, but most of the models I (and certainly many others) want to build involves the extended wing tips, etc. NACHTJAGER! Having gained a lot of scratchbuilding experience recently while manufacturing aircraft models for FAA Air traffic control training labs, I decided to put my carving and sanding skills to work, using, by choice and hard lessons, basswood, that old standard that is overlooked by so many in favor of balsa. Let's talk about wood for a minute. Balsa is great stuff for flying models; it is lightweight, easily shaped, and provides a robust structure (when properly engineered). Basswood, however, has properties more in line with what we need. First, the grain is dense, and not as coarse as pine or balsa; it is slightly heavier than balsa, but most importantly, can be easily carved, cut and sanded without requiring extensive grain filling. It's also stronger. Where to find it? I buy it at Hobby Lobby; it's in the same display bin as balsa. It's also available in dollhouse sections in some stores specializing in such crafts. Basswood is the choice of those who build miniature furniture as well… try turning four sets of table legs in a miniature lathe with balsa and watch them split apart. Not so with basswood… To begin: You will need accurate plans. I enlarged three views from a Squadron "In Action" series book on the JU-88. After much deliberation, I decided on a JU-88G-6; The scheme I decided on was on the back cover of the "Part 2" in action book, as it had a simplified antenna array and would therefore be different than all the other JU-88's with the standard FuG rams horn radars. Measuring the kit, I matched the drawings to the kit parts through further enlargement. Even the panel lines matched! Things that needed alteration or scratchbuilding: · Construct a new nose section. · Extend outer wing sections and ailerons. · Extend outer stab and elevator sections. · A new, wide-chord vertical fin and rudder. · The antennas. · An armor wrap-around for the pilot seat. · MG-131 automatic weapon for the rear cockpit mount. · Two carburetor supercharger scoops. · Exhaust flame damper tubes. · Make the main wheel diameter smaller. · New VS-111 propeller blades. · Construct a new armored windscreen. · Construct a new armored gun mount for the rearward firing MG-131. · Construct a new clear compass mount for the spine where one didn't exist before. · Develop a new clear mount for the trailing wire antenna. · Construct a ventral gun tub with four 20MM cannon mounted in place. BEFORE YOU BEGIN! Remember it's easier to remove material than to glue it back on. Up to you if you want to triple your workload, your choice… work slowly and deliberately. Here's how to finish basswood; Use 60 grit abrasive, SHARP knives, and rasps to rough shape. Use 120 grit to mid-sand and remove the gouges from the 60-grade paper. Move next to 400 and, finally, 600 grit paper. Do NOT wet sand; this will swell the grain of the wood and ruin your part. Next step: Use automotive scratch -filling spray primer. Gray works best for me. Wait for it to dry, (about an hour) then sand with 400/600 again. Do this as many times as needed to get rid of pits and sanding marks. It works, trust me! No butyrate dope or sanding sealer required, and if you polish the primer after a day with a 1200 grade "finish stick", the final product will look like plastic. I use a Delta bench belt sander for most of my basic shaping work; attached to the shop vac, it makes the work easier and less tedious. Of course, if it grabs the part your work will disappear faster than you can ever believe; it's all about practice. (I also use the beast for removing pour plugs from resin… just don't overheat them.) I started with the outer wing sections; using a profile template, I used my table jigsaw to rough cut out the wing tips and ailerons. I also did this for the tail feathers (fin, rudder, extended stab and elevators). Using my belt sander, I rough shaped the airfoils, formed the mounting tabs, and then CA glued the outer wing sections in place. Use sanding sticks (Emery boards) to match the airfoil to the kit airfoil; do the same with the elevators. The fin and rudder were nothing more than basic exercises in careful material removal until they had the right outline and airfoil shape. I then outlined the rudder, and cut it out using a #11 blade and razor saw (for the mass balance at the top of the rudder). To facilitate installation of a fin recess to accept the rudder, I carefully cut a "V" in the back of the fin, then, using a round file, worked the area into the proper shape. I then extended the rudder using a strip of basswood, which was then rounded to shape on the front of the fin. Offer the part up to the drawings frequently, as this will ensure accuracy.

When satisfied, superglue the fin in place. (Use thick; it makes a better bond). I had previously "hogged" out a fin attachment slot using a fiber-reinforced cutoff wheel so the kit tab for the fin would fit over it. Next item: The armored pilot seat. I carved and sanded a rough outline based on dimensions from the pilot seat. I then used a "Squash form" method to make the armor plating. It's on the back of Squadron's vacform sheets as to how to do this: Basically, you mount the part on an armature (In this case, a piece of wire superglued to the part), put the wire in a vise, and get out your heat source. I used my butane torch (Go all the way, and it stands alone), heated up some styrene sheet using gloves to protect my hands, then mashed it down over the form and let it cool. It took two tries, but it worked. Cut it out, shape the outline, fit to the seat, and paint.

Solid nose construction: Assemble the fuselage to the point where you are ready to install the canopy. Take four squares of ¼" thick basswood and glue them together, cross grain (Grain running 90 degrees to each other on each layer). This laminating gives strength to the assembly, and actually makes it less likely to have the part "split" while sanding to shape. Next, glue the block to the assembled fuselage. You will probably have to use a sanding drum to slightly hollow out the nose section, and facilitate the nose fitting over the rudder pedals. If you feel really furry, you can detail the interior now before you shape the exterior. I used my belt sander and Mk 1 eyeball to shape the nose; Draw a centerline mark from front to back on the sides to ensure you don't remove too much material from one side more than the other. The traditional method is to use profile and plan templates to shape the side and top, and work from there. In the end, it all comes together. See the photos.

As this particular aircraft had the lower ventral gun position removed, I cut the kit item off, and backed it up from the inside with plastic card stock. On the exterior, I used putty to contour the area, then when cured, sanded to shape. Cannon barrels are plastic tubing… inserted into holes drilled BEFORE the gun pack was installed. (You can't get a drill that close to the fuselage due to the chuck assembly… trust me) Well, what else needs to be done? How about extended horizontal stabilizers? Use the same technique as the main wings… drawings, make parts from basswood, install, fill and shape. Modeling heaven! The clear plastic spinal compass housing had me perplexed. I ended up cutting a piece of ½" diameter acrylic rod from my stash, constructing a compass "star" for the interior (Made from foil), and used a sanding drum in the Dremel to open up the hole. Install the rod segment with superglue (NO ACCELERATOR! IT WILL FOG THE INTERIOR) and come back in a day or so after it's cured. I found power tools made quick work of the exterior, leveling it with the spinal area. A bit of progressive sanding with finer grades and water, use a polishing stick, and call it done!

Now I started to realize just how nuts this whole idea was. I needed to scratchbuild two carb intake scoops. You can go expensive, which is scratch one up and then use silicone and resin to make nice copies of the original, or you can go the cheap route; make two and TRY to keep them approximately the same size. That is what I did… The came out close enough for my purposes!

Same for the exhaust flame shrouds… I used Plastic tubing cut to length, and wrapped tape strips around them. A bit of thin superglue to keep the strips in place, and then use your Dremel tool and router burrs to open up slots to fit over the exhausts. (Paint them first). I did not attempt to make the circular intake flow diverters; those are best left to the photoetch crowd.

The armored windscreen was ugly. I did not try to make a master and vacform it, as I have failed miserably in the past. I opted to grind out the windscreen, and build a new one out of clear plastic sheeting. It worked in the end, but is rather rough if you look closely. So don't. I manufactured the armored gunner's glazing out of more Plexiglas rod. Sanded and polished, it came out ok; into this I installed a scratchbuild MG31, used .30 cal ammo from a 1/35 scale Academy UH-1C set (from the aircrew soft-vinyl sprue), and manufactured a spent-shell dispenser from thick solder that I wound with fine wire. Painted it light tan, a bit of sienna for shading, and it looks like a canvas shell chute. The gun sight was from some or another PE sheet I had laying around with one on it.

Home stretch time; Painting! Yet another coat of primer, sharpen up the rescribed areas, and get to work. I used Tamiya rattle cans of Luftwaffe light blue overall for the basic scheme. The mottle was RLM Grauviolet, from the Modelmaster range of acrylics. The Halkenkreutz and Balkenkreutz are masked and painted (no decals on this build). Use the kit markings as examples, measure appropriately, and use your favorite masking method. I used Tamiya and Blue Scotch "Low tack" painters tape for this. Chevrons were eyeballed, and the numbers and letters were done the same. I stuck some tape to a self-healing board, laid out the size of the letters, and cut masks out from them. It worked ok… not perfect, but this was a FUN build, remember? The aircraft Werke number was drawn on with a fine "Sharpie" black marker. Usually they don't work so well on models, but in this case they did fine.

Last items: The tires on the G6 are supposedly smaller in diameter than earlier JU-88's. It looks that way in photos, and the radial tread is not there. I glued the assembled kit wheel/tire assemblies onto a wire armature, (Made from coat hanger wire), chucked them in my variable speed drill, and proceeded to use the drill as a lathe by using a sanding block on the tires. This worked great; and in the end, the metal armature, when cut down, served as a replacement axle for the landing gear. (Previous experience showed this was a weak spot on the model) Just drill through the entire landing gear strut with a bit the same size as the axle, and glue the whole wheel/tire onto the strut. No metal struts required! The propellers were an issue that had me bugged. I used Alumilite resin to widen a kit propeller. (Basically, you lay the kit prop in a basin made of aluminum foil, then pour in the resin around the blade… you then have a large blob to work with from that moment on…).

Lots of sanding yielded a decent prop. I attempted to make a cheap one-piece mold by using silicone putty; in the end I had six propeller blanks, but determined they were not up to standard. The collar detail was missing, and I was really cranked at my work. Searching the internet yielded VS-111 props from "Quickboost" for the Hasegawa JU-87G, of which I ordered two sets from Hannants. Two weeks later I had decent props… Which STILL required me to pare down the mounting shaft before they would fit into the kit hubs… but fit they did! The kit spinners were adequate; could be "fuller" in appearance like Maye West (for us old guys) but I was at the end of the fun meter.

BUT WAIT! There's MORE! I had to construct antennas! I used coat hangar wire for the basic antenna shaft; plastic tubing suitably drilled for the Dipole antennas (Yeah, I know, they should all be on the same axis… shoot me later), and a blob of epoxy for the aerodynamic fairing at the front of the antenna array. VERY small drills to allow the brass antennas to fit into the plastic shafts… I made the whole assembly removable to facilitate transportation. Smart, huh…?

As to the rear warning antenna, that was basically an exercise in soldering brass wire into the appropriate shapes. Plastic would work, but will sag over time. Do whatcha feel…I like the brass version for durability. AND, if some bratty little kid zaps his fingers with them (verses breaking off the antennas), oops. Life is a training excursion.

OK, so here we are at the end. I opted not to install a NAXOS dome on the canopy, and likewise chose not to install Schrage Muzik cannon barrels, as I could not confirm the configuration. (better to be wrong by omission, in my mind…) And so I finished. I had extreme modeling satisfaction, a really cool kit in front of me, and confidence that I can do things like this again… even a full scratchbuild. (Helicopters come to mind!) My sincere appreciation goes out to Revell Deutschland for their foresight, who continue to tackle subjects like this at extremely low cost. Yep, paid for out of my wallet… and if you want to see the model, it's at Freedom Hobbies in Norman. Tell Ponch I sent you…