Italeri

1/72 X/YB-35 "Flying Wing"

Kit Number: 1277

Reviewed by  Rod Lees, IPMS# 10821

MSRP: $79.00 MRC/Academy: www.modelrec.com Back in the early 1990s', the U.S. Company AMT was entering the aviation modeling community with models we had not seen before. In 1/72nd scale, they had the consummate KC-135 series, the B-52G and H, F-104's, the B-70 (woah!) and the flying wings, both X/YB-35 (prop) and XB-49 (Jet Powered) and in 1/48, the A-20 in various marks, along with the Tigercat and P-40N. With the exception of the B-52 (a discussion for another time), all were excellent kits, relatively well fitting, and accurate. Some companies have re-released these kits (Heller re-released the KC-135R with MIPR pods and Armee de' l aire markings, along with a KC-135A in USAF marks), and Italeri is the current distributor. To the subject of this kit which is Italeri's rerelease of the AMT X/YB-35. I built this kit when it first came out; as I remember, the fit was good, the final product stunning. Now that I have this new boxing, and a bit more skill, I'll go out on a limb and say- buy it. It's worth the cash. If for nothing else, the kit is an excellent start for practicing natural metal finishes, and a better decal sheet. Let's get to it… Nothing structurally has been altered except the Italeri plastic is a bit harder and, well, better than the AMT boxing. This is GOOD for the natural metal finish. The decal sheet: THAT is also an improvement. Cartograf… it has to be translated as one word to describe "the best decals around". Included are wing walkways, appropriate stenciling, and accurate national insignias. And they go on well on the natural metal finish. No silvering, no curling, just "lie down where I put you". Coolness. This is a simple kit; build the interior and paint it all aluminum, touch up the seat cushions with flat red paint, and pick out instrument panels with flat black and drybrushed white/silver bezels. The instructions give color callouts for a bit of differentiation; after you are finished, give it a nice black or gray wash, and call it done. There are decals for the main instrument panel; I chose not to use them.

On to the main build. My advice: Don't follow the instructions. First, install the "spar" boxes on the center lower section. Then, when dry, carefully offer up the lower outer wing sections, using tape, liquid cement, and eventually a bit of CA to hold everything in place. (What happens if you follow the instructions? You have a SERIOUS step between the wing and center section… It WILL look funky. I know, that's what I did in 1995. Of course, if you are into following the rules and LOVE using extra putty, feel free. I'm nobody…) Next, do the same with the upper center section and outer sections. When dry, assemble the interior into place, put about 3 ounces of lead or other "safe" weight in the nose around the interior (Use your fingertips as balance points from the main gear; you'll figure it out), then cement the top to the bottom. Use lots of tape, make sure it's all straight, and go away for a couple of days. Come back, remove the tape, cement the leading edge intake parts into place, and let dry. Break out the putty, fill the seams, let cure, and get busy sanding with emery boards. This is a 'dreaded' natural metal finish, ya know. It was at this point I installed the engine nacelles. They are two part items, and fit well. Do NOT install the landing gear yet. Primer everything, and finish sand to your liking. Vacuum off the dust, install the clear parts, and mask. I seriously recommend Tamiya's Kabuki tape. It doesn't allow bleed through, and will not permanently attach itself if you use lacquer paints like Magic tape will. More primer to make sure, then the fun begins. I tried a new technique. Usually I just apply aluminum paint over polished primer. This time I shot gloss white lacquer over the whole thing after the primer. Dumb; was too thick. Made a nice hard surface, but filled in the panel lines. I don't recommend this technique. I also had some surface cracking issues over the primer. Grrr. I use Tamiya "Silver Leaf" spray for my aluminum finishes. After it's dried hard over two days (One day and you have the fingerprints that you can't see in the pictures but are there, duh), mask the panels you want to leave dull, and get out the aluminum powder, latex gloves, dust mask, and a soft cloth. Use the aluminum powder to polish over all the masked areas. ("Precious Metal" silver powder from Hobby Lobby, or SNJ aluminum powder… ) I can't tell you how, just practice. Do NOT aggressively buff, you will break through the silver leaf. When satisfied (are we ever?) STOP! Peel off everything, wash your hands, and use a soft cloth to clean off the remaining aluminum powder. Only then should you install the landing gear, gear doors, pitot tubes, etc…

Decal, gloss coat if you like (I didn't) and remove all your masking. The engine cooling intakes received a black wash to show the grill effect, and I drilled out the exhausts on the bottom of the wing. Since this aircraft (from what I remember) did not fly with the contra-rotating props, I opted not to weather the aircraft. I did use the contra props as they just look cool. The actual aircraft did fly later with standard single disk pusher props, which are included in the kit along with spinner assemblies. Decals, as stated before, were a non-event. They are PERFECT. I like how it looks, but have the same problem as last time; where to put it? It's a big aircraft, and takes a shelf of its own. Hang it from the ceiling is probably the best option… I enjoyed this build; was a good trip down memory lane for me. I highly recommend these kits as buildable, "different" aircraft. And when displayed next to a B-2 in 1/72nd scale, it gives some perspective on what can be done with slide rules and creativity, 40 years before… (The first B-2 flew in 1988… Has it been that long ago?) And for the "what if" crowd, the gun turrets BEG for 20MM cannon and an open bomb bay. Maybe next time… My thanks to Ed Sexton and MRC Academy for the chance to review this kit