Eduard

1/48 Fokker Dr I Dual Combo

Kit Number: 8161

Reviewed by  Gary Telecsan, IPMS# 34779

MSRP: $39.95 Website: www.eduard.cz Catalog Item I love building Eduard kits, and this Fokker Dr I Dual Combo is just twice the fun. The Dr I Triplane was Germany's answer to the Sopwith Triplane, and although quickly obsolete in the speed category soldiered on until the end of the Great War, used by some of Germany's greatest aces. There are 3 sprues of tan plastic containing 78 parts, 6 of which are extra, 1 Color Zoom and 1 regular photo etch fret, 4 acetate film pieces for a choice of gunsights, and a sheet of masks for the cowling and wheel color options. Instructions are the usual superb Eduard booklet, easy to follow. Just remember that you're doing everything twice! We start in the cockpit where there is a lot to add. The Dr I was a smallish aircraft, and Eduard's kit builds up more like the 1/72 scale WW II kits I am used to building, though it is 1/48. The cockpit is straightforward, but there is so much to go into it. The only way to go wrong, I think, is that the seat assembly cants back at an angle which isn't clear until one turns the page. I had to separate and re-glue my first one. The PE is simply fabulous, the Zoom fret saving quite a bit of time and making even a hack like me look good. A word of caution - keep dry-fitting the fuselage halves as you go. There is plenty of room to close them up if you're careful!

While the various plastic and PE bits in the cockpit dried, I prepped the wings for painting, attaching the ailerons and forward cockpit portions, then ending up with a flat base coat in acrylic of a vaguely linen-y, olive-y color; more about this later. Eduard gives kit parts for two styles of ailerons and elevators, so check part numbers carefully. Which style went with which markings option is not clear in the instructions, so research is vital. I also assembled the engines at this stage, painting the cylinders and attaching the PE harnesses and exhaust collectors. They are not due for attention in the instructions until after the main wings are attached, but I get impatient waiting for things to set up. Rattle can silver was used for the cylinders and an acrylic wash to bring out the details. Only about 3 cylinders will be visible once the cowling goes on. I put together the airfoil for the landing gear, and then set about painting the camouflage. It has been about 45 years since I put together a WW I aircraft and things have certainly changed in the meantime. All six marking options given in the box call for a streaked linen finish. I originally wanted to try using a Streaky Dec decal on one of the planes as offered by Ira Campbell, but couldn't get any response to emails so had to wing it with paint.

Now several of my friends tell me they get good results in simulating streaked linen using acrylics or enamels, some with an airbrush and some by hand, but I had no luck with either. I resorted to oils, and after several tries got an acceptable result. I think I could have mixed the colors to be a bit more olive, but I'll do better next time. The oils behaved marvelously over the acrylic base. While waiting for the oils (3rd attempt, at that!) to dry, I assembled the machine guns. Eduard gives the option of molded plastic guns with molded plastic cooling jackets or naked guns with PE jackets. I did one set of each, and while the plastic guns are well molded and acceptable, the PE jackets are much better. My photos don't do them justice. The wheel masks worked pretty well, but take care with the outside as they come in two pieces. I used some extra tape (or blu-tack would work as well) to make sure of a tight seam. The cowling masks are perfect. There are two styles of propellers included, and instructions are again vague. I used one of each and tried my hand at a laminated effect for one, with moderately successful results. Final assembly proved more challenging than I would have thought - I was stretched! Tail, elevators, and rudder went on without a problem, and you can drill holes and provide the control wires if you wish - positive, well shaped areas are provided which would make it easy - no guessing. I skipped it for time's sake. However, trying to get the correct angle on the upper wing and then the cabane struts to reach was challenging, and I'm not sure my final product is entirely accurate. The main braces on the wing are positively located, going all the way through the middle wing, and they provide a good basis for the upper wing attachment. However, the cabane struts were all just a tad too short. I understand now why all the reviews in the British magazines use the phrase "I discarded the kit's struts drilled out the attachments, and replaced them all with Brass Strutz." In desperation, I thought of doing that as well, but the Aeroclub site was shut down in March and none of my friends had any spares. Looking back, I think next time I'll spring for some aerofoil-shaped Evergreen and definitely drill out the holes for the fuselage mounted struts. I had no problems with the struts provided for the landing gear attachment. Decals were superb, covered well, and responded well to solvents. I got a little silvering on one wing, but that was carelessness with the gloss coat over the oil on my part. Where I glossed well, the decals look like paint, and full stencils are provided for all six options. When did the ground crews find time to put on all those little stencils, anyway? Two fun builds for the price of one, and I have another one in my stash to try two more color options. Many thanks to Eduard for the sample and the enjoyable hours.