Amodel

1/72 Messerschmitt Bf-109F-2/U

Kit Number: 72186

Reviewed by  Brian R. Baker, IPMS# 43146

MSRP: $29.95 Website: http://hobbyterra.com History The Messerschmitt Bf-109F was possibly the apex in the design and development of the BF-109 series of Luftwaffe fighters. A step backward in armament, with only one 20mm cannon firing through the propeller hub as compared with two in the wings of the Bf-109E, the Bf-109F was nevertheless the best flying of the later series of Messerschmitt fighters, as the later G series became heavier and less manageable under combat conditions. The armament question, however, was never really solved, as one 20 mm cannon and two rifle caliber machine guns were not really enough to counter the much more heavily armed fighters and bombers of the Allies, although a good pilot could score quite often with the plane. Oberst Adolf Galland, always the thinker and innovator, decided to improve his personal aircraft, and did so by increasing the armament. After flying a standard Bf-109F-2, he modified w/nr 6748 by adding two 13mm MG 131’s, replacing the MG-17 machine guns above the cowling. This resulted in small bulges ahead of the windshield. His second aircraft, w/nr 6750, had the fuselage cannon removed and one 20mm MG/FF cannon installed in each wing. Both aircraft required 100-octane fuel instead of the usual 87-octane. This produced a superior fighter, with heavier armament and better performance. The Kit What, you say? Another 1/72 scale kit of the Messerschmitt Bf-109? Well, yes, but…. This kit depicts three of the aircraft that Oberst Galland flew in France during 1941 while commander of JG-26. These are three different aircraft, with slightly different markings and different armament. Decals are provided for all three aircraft. The kit consists of 92 pieces, and is described in the instructions as a "short run technology" kit. It appears to be basically accurate in outline, and when completed, looks like a Bf-109F, which is, I believe, the idea. Amodel has apparently previously produced a Bf-109F, although I have not seen that particular kit. The other real choice would be the Fine Molds kit, which I also have not seen, but from the pictures and descriptions I have seen, it is a first class model. The old Frog Bf-109F is probably best left forgotten. The instructions consist of eight 8 x 11 inch pages stapled together. The front page contains a couple of sentences on the history of the aircraft that could use a little more detail. A color chart, entitled "Used Paints" lists 18 colors required. These are given in Humbrol Numbers and in generic color terms (i.e. black, sand, leather, blue, etc.). It would have helped to at least have the RLM color numbers listed, as those are what most modelers go by. A very useful sprue diagram is provided, even more useful since none of the numbers appear on the sprue itself. Finally, on page 3, the assembly drawings are given. These are fairly clear in most respects, but a lot of color detail is left out, and you’ll have to consult one of the many books on the Bf-109 series to figure out what the cockpit or engine colors are. The kit is cast in soft, light grey styrene, with fairly large attachment points, so considerable trimming is required to get the parts off the sprue. Be sure to keep track of the parts, and take them off only as you need them as there are a lot of parts, and they aren’t always easy to identify once off the sprue. Assembly Following the instructions, I began cutting the parts off the sprue as they were needed. I assembled the major cockpit parts, including the floor, stick, seat, and instrument panel, painting them mainly RLM 66, with the cannon in gunmetal grey. Interior painting should be done at this stage. I had to consult my references library, as detailed painting instructions weren’t included in the kit. The instrument panel has raised detail, but the decal provided works very well, although I needed some decal solution to get it to lie down right. The engine is also very detailed, and is made up of a block (cast into the fuselage), engine mounts, top and bottom plates, and a couple of other parts. It would be nice if they would name what each part is, which might give a clue as to its color, since very little color information is provided. The detail is a little rough, but the overall effect of the assembled parts is excellent. The wings include a main lower section and two top sections. The rear portions of the radiators are cast in a partially opened position. Most photos show the radiator flaps in the full down position, although occasionally you’ll see a photo of an Bf-109F model with the flaps completely retracted. Oddly, the only photos I found of the flaps in this position is a set of photos of Galland’s F models during a ceremony, so it is certainly correct to build the wing as molded. I did. It would be difficult to cut the flaps and display them in either the open or closed position. Once the cockpit is detailed, the fuselage halves can be joined, and the cockpit can be permanently glued in place. There are some very small details that are not fully explained, like the small what looks like an instrument panel inside of the cowling on the right side - there is even a decal for it! There are some extra parts included, so be sure and decide which airplane you are modeling so that you use only the necessary parts. The unused ones can go in the spares box, as they might come in handy later for another model. The canopy goes on from rear to front. It is designed so that you can leave the canopy and cowlings open so that the detail can be seen, but you need to decide the condition of your model early. If you are going to leave the cowlings closed, there is no need to detail the engine. The purists among you will do it anyway, hoping some day the archaeologists find it, and exclaim "This guy was good! or maybe Nuts". The canopy is not too clear, so you could cut back on detailing if you are going to leave your canopy closed. I left mine open, so I did some detailing. There are no mounting holes for the 20mm cannon breech fairings underneath the wings. The tabs can be trimmed off and the units located without any problems, although you’ll need a reference to ascertain their exact locations. The same goes for the belly tank mounting rack. The holes provided are not correctly positioned, causing the rack to be off center when mounted - but this is be easily corrected. In regard to the belly tank, it was crudely done, and I replaced it with one from my spares box (a benefit of never throwing anything away). Going to the engine cowling, if you are going to leave it opened as I did, the cowling halves need to be joined at the top in the correct position. Be sure to add the supercharger intake before joining the cowlings, as it will be pretty difficult doing it later. The underside of the cowling can be opened to expose the detail of the lower engine, but I decided to leave mine closed. There is some interior detail there, but I had to remove some of it, as the lower cowling didn’t fit in place with it on. To get the underside cowling to fit, also required some trimming and filler. On the vertical fin, the small radio antenna post is only moulded on one side of the fuselage. I just removed it and replaced it in final assembly. On the right side of the engine compartment there is a small instrument panel, for which is supplied a small decal. I’ve never seen any evidence of this in photos, so I just applied the decal. The instructions are very fuzzy on this. The propeller (there are several provided in the kit) is supposed to go on the crankshaft in front of the rear spinner ring. The propeller shaft is too short, and the little cap didn’t fit. I hollowed out the prop hole, but it never really solved the problem. The prop is just stuck on with white glue, but it is impossible to detect in the display case. The prop actually looks pretty good on the model. Finishing I started with masking the engine and canopy. After coating the underside of the cowling in RLM 04 and masking it, I applied a coat of RLM 76 over the lower surfaces and fuselage sides. I then checked the camouflage pattern and sprayed RLM 75 and then RLM 74 over the upper surfaces. Later, I finished up the RLM 76 light blue. The decals in this kit are really good, although quite matt. They don’t require trimming, and went on very easily. The only suggestion I have, would be to cut decals 33 and 34 (the wing walk decals) into three parts, with the straight lines and stenciling separate. Positioning these was a little dicey. I used some Microscale decal solution, but I don’t know if this was necessary. A coat of Testor’s Glosscote before and after, followed by some Dullcote, got the model ready for the final touches. Some light weathering and chipping (Galland’s airplane would have been as immaculate as they ever got) and it was finally finished. Recommendations This is is not an easy kit, as it is extremely detailed. It is a little rough, and requires some filler. The surface detail is good, and overall, it turns out into a nice model of a very interesting variant of the Bf-109. I have not built the Finemolds kit but this kit is certainly buildable, and for an experienced modeler, the product should be excellent. Thanks to Hobbyterra.com, Amodel and IPMS/USA for the review kit. It was a fun week.