Part 2: The Build, Completed

[Editors Note: Click on underlined Figure # for pop-up window.] Bottom Line: Too many mistakes and problems with this kit for recommendation. This kit should only be undertaken by experienced modelers who will spend time and money to bring this kit back to accuracy and handle the considerable building problems. Building the Trumpeter 05737 kit of the World War Two Essex-class carrier CV19 USS Hancock was far more troublesome than the First Look Box Review suggested. Although the basic kit is adequate, and has several excellent features, the number of problems and mistakes with this kit means that following the instructions and building this ship out of the box (OOB) would yield a very plain and inaccurate representation of the USS Hancock in late 1944. One would end up with the Frankcock or Hanlin, but not the Hancock. With the large amount of reference materials easily and freely available for Essex-class carriers and Hancock in particular, there is no excuse for mistakes. Plus, with two other adequate or fine kits of the Hancock and other long-bow Essex-class carriers available from Hasegawa and Dragon, respectively, the deficiencies of this kit become more glaring. Good News First. On the plus side, the kit has the following positive features: Decent price. Full hull or waterline options. Single-piece, very well detailed flight deck. Elevators can be in up or down positions. Simulated water display for waterline version. Clear plastic aircraft that are the best on the market in 1/700 scale injection molded plastic. Guns (5in, 20mm, 40mm) are close to scale and better than other injection-molded plastic kits. Hangar deck is finished sufficiently to detail the insides if desired. Hangar roll doors can be left open, or closed. The overall dimensions and "look" are accurate. Decals are fine, although the national insignia for aircraft are out of register. The Bad News. However, these positives are overwhelmed by a long list of negatives that make building this kit difficult and that would not result in an accurate Essex-class carrier OOB. The Mistakes Ignore the pretty Painting and Marking Guide supplied with the kit (Figure 1). In fact, throw it away. The starboard camo scheme in the Guide was on short-bow carriers Bunker Hill and Franklin, not long-bow Hancock. The flight deck color with the dazzle camouflage scheme (Measure 32/3a) was the lighter blue shade (Flight Deck Stain 21), not the later war dark shade as depicted in the Guide. Also, there were no hull numbers carried on the bow during this period. Even the aircraft camouflage schemes were inaccurate for the undersides, although the sides and upper surfaces were OK. Finally, there were only four radio masts on Hancock, not five as pictured. Instead, get the Floating Drydock CD and you will see the correct dazzle camouflage scheme applied to this ship. Do not install the hangar deck catapult (G26) in Step 8. Hancock was never fitted with this - only the first few Essex class ships fitted it, and all but one quickly removed them in 1944. Also, sand down the attachment stump on the hull side for this part - it never existed on Hancock. (see Figure 2 for correct appearance - the stump was just in front of the crane hook on the hull). Ignore the kit instructions that say to add two 40mm mounts and their directors on the aft port quarter in Step 10 (parts F15, F16, F21, F22, F23, G1). These were not on Hancock during the dazzle camouflage period. Also, do not cut out holes in part A6 in Step 4. The 20mm AA gun mounts are actually not too oversized for 1/700 scale. The mistake is that there are no shields. Trumpeter seems to repeat this mistake with its US Navy carrier kits, even in their 1/350 kits. This is simply horribly inaccurate and detracts from the appearance of the model. More later on how to fix this glaring error. Likewise, the 40mm quad gun mounts are close to scale, but they do not have shields. More later on how to fix this error. In 1944, and throughout her dazzle-painted career, Hancock had 11 40mm quad mounts - two in the bow, two on the stern, three on or near the bridge and four on the port side in sponsons. Hancock did not receive her two additional 40mm mounts on the port quarter aft (or the five additional mounts on the starboard side) until her refit in April 1945, when she emerged with the two-tone Measure 22 camouflage scheme, an upgraded radar suite and twin 20mm mounts. The Problems I disagree with some of the sequence of building steps in the instructions. For example, if building the waterline version, add the waterline plate right away in Step 1, not at the end in Step 15. That way, any seams can be filled and sanded without removing the paint job. Since most WW2 warships were heavier than anticipated, the boot topping often did not show, so I filled and sanded the seam and then continued the paint over the waterline plate. There is no indication as to the best times to paint the model. If you do not paint the hangar interior in Step 1, it will be much more difficult later when the vertical sides are up. Some of the vertical sides are best painted before assembly, since they are recessed and make masking for airbrushing problematic. Look ahead before blindly following the instruction sequence. The design of this kit adds vertical sides to the hangar deck. This leaves an ugly, distinctive seam running down both sides of the ship, that was obviously not present on the real ship, which had flat, unbroken sides. This seam will need extensive puttying and sanding to achieve a flat surface on each side. (see Figure 3 for the ugly seam on the starboard side). There are also distinctive seams where the flight deck attached to the vertical sides, and around all the catwalks. This area is very difficult to putty and sand, so a better solution is to simply use styrene strips to plate over the seam (explained later). It would have been nice if the flight deck was removable in case one wanted to show off a finished hangar interior, but the starboard 20mm gun gallery (part F27 in Step 11) prevents the flight deck from being removed without tearing it off. An unfortunate kit design feature that stifles one of the positives of this kit. Typical of 1/700 scale ships, radars, radio masts, masts and other small pieces are chunky and overscale. Although Trumpeter did a good job with the shape and size of these parts, the presence of aftermarket photoetched sets, or simple scratchbuilding techniques, can greatly aid the accuracy and look of the model by replacing these parts. The Mark 51 directors that control the 40mm gun mounts are too tall, and should be cut right above the base. The "head" of the directors should just peek out over the rim of their tubs, and not stick out completely over the rim. The Fixes. During construction of this kit, it became obvious with all the fit problems and mistakes that building the Hancock OOB (as originally intended) would result in an unworthy kit. For some, this would be fine, but if one is going to spend as much time fixing the kit problems (much less the mistakes) on a subject with much knowledge on its accurate appearance, then one might as well go ahead and do it right. That means fixing the problems and investing more time and money to add aftermarket photoetch and scratchbuilt pieces. This way, the model can be accurate, and look much better. Since this is a review kit, and many builders will not want to spend extra dollars on photoetch sets (or they do not want to hassle with those tiny pieces), I chose to scratchbuild some items instead of using photoetch. However, railings, ladders, radars and radio masts are far easier and better when photoetched. For those parts there really is no other option, except which company to use. Here are the fixes used to make Trumpeter's Hancock at least be as accurate as possible. First, the camouflage scheme. I used a Secret Weapon - Gator's Paint Masks. For $7.00, you can get a 1/700 scale template already pre-cut for the complicated Measure 32/3a dazzle camouflage scheme. The template covers the entire hull and bridge. Simply peel and place the whole mask, and remove successive panels to paint each color. The mask is made for short-bow carriers, so the bow will need some modification. The mask may need some trimming here and there, but overall, it positions right where it should and allows you to airbrush the different color panels (see Figure 4). I chose to airbrush the lightest color first (Light Gray 5L), and then add the medium color (Ocean Gray 5O) and the darkest color (Dull Black - I used Floquil Weathered Black enamel) by hand (Figure 5). The mask sticks well, and peels off without problems. Paint usually does not run underneath it. I was very satisfied with the Gator Mask, and plan to use other patterns on other ships. It is re-usable. The flight deck was airbrushed with White Ensign Models Flight Deck Stain 21, as were the elevators. This is the lighter shade of Flight Deck Stain 21, not the late-war dark blue color as depicted in the Painting Guide. Be careful when choosing paints, as both shades were called Flight Deck Stain 21. Kit hull number decals were applied fore and aft, and lightened with the pastel pencil. Future floor polish was applied to the area before application, and Solvaset was used to help the decals settle into the flight deck, followed by another Future coat, then several coats of Polly-S Clear Flat. This way, the flight deck numbers were not so stark and dark, as they faded quickly in the tropical sun and after weeks of operations. Flight deck dashes were hand-painted instead of using the overbright kit decals. Hancock had white dashes, which in 1/700 scale after the typical weathering, are best represented by light gray, not white. Thus, I used Light Gray 5L paint to make the dashes. The extremely thin midline dashes were not applied, since they were difficult to see and faded quickly. I used Tamiya Masking Tape to define the longitudinal dimension, and then drybrushed 5L in 2 mm long dashes every 6 mm (Figure 6). Touch-up with Flight Deck Stain 21 can correct any overpainting. These dashes looked closer to photographs than the kit decals would since they simulated the worn appearance after use. The bridge was built separately, and Gator Mask pieces were applied and paints applied just like the hull. Be sure to leave off the galleries and decks for the bridge until after painting the camouflage - the galleries can be added later and then the paint scheme matched precisely. The bridge just looked so plain and featureless compared to photos that I simply had to fix it (Figure 7). Consulting photographs of the Hancock and other Essex-class carriers, including the Floating Drydock CD (Camouflage 2), it was apparent there were two problems with this kit's bridge. One, the radars were solid and looked too thick. Second, there were many missing pieces to the mast and stack. I fixed these problems in two ways. First, I used the Gold Medal Models USN Aircraft Carrier set to provide the radars and some platforms. But that was not enough. I used brass and plastic rods to make additional horizontal and vertical mast parts, and cut out plastic sheet for additional platforms, as per photos. I scratchbuilt the large horn on the stack from stretched sprue pieces, and added pipes to the stack from bent brass rod. I added scrap resin pieces for the two exhausts on the rear of the stack. I converted other photoetched parts to make the smaller radars that were not supplied by the Gold Medal Models set. I added two whip antennae from stretched sprue, and added pieces of plastic strip to simulate speakers. I used a Koh-i-noor drafting pen (0.30mm) with black India ink to put dots on the speaker faces to simulate the cells. The drafting pen was also used to fill the portholes with black India ink (easier than using a paintbrush or rod). Then I added the platform decks and installed railing, and added the 20mm guns later. The refurbished bridge looked much better and closer to the real appearance (Figure 8), (Figure 9). Radio masts: I used the Gold Medal Models photoetched radio masts, and added a piece of plastic rod for the crossbar (Figure 10). Be sure to put the side with the ladder facing the flight deck. The supports for two of the radio masts from the kit were solid blocks, and no photoetched parts were available, so I scratchbuilt them from deck netting and carefully bent brass rod. Since I decided to depict my Hancock launching aircraft, I wanted to position the masts in their horizontal position instead of the vertical position. This means I had to cut out the catwalk, add plastic strip for a base, and glue the masts in their horizontal position. Make sure the gratings on two of the masts are flush with the catwalk. They turned out to be very delicate because they stick out so much, but they really enhance the accuracy of the Hancock launching aircraft, and give a sense of action. Seams: the wide seam down the middle of the hull side was puttied with Tamiya Putty, and sanded. The hull and hangar deck sides did not quite match, so there was a slope to the puttied area instead of a flat side. Other seams were filled with pieces of plastic and gap-filling cyanoacrylate glue. The seams above the catwalks around the flight deck were plated over with Evergreen strip styrene (#124 1/4-scale 1 x 4), since there was not enough room to putty and sand. The strips were almost the same height as the vertical sides, and did not require additional trimming. This approach worked well, and prevented unsightly seams all around the model. I used the drafting pen to draw black door openings. Photoetched railings and the netting and bracing under the side elevator were added at the end of construction. The port side 20mm galleries (parts F25, F28, F29) were not deep enough to accommodate the 20mm guns. The breeches were flush against the wall. This was the same problem Trumpeter's 1/350 scale carrier kits had. I used plastic strip pieces to extend the galleries and add new attachment stubs (Figure 11). This way the same attachment holes for the 20mm guns were kept. 5in turrets: The kit pieces were plain, and since they are in obvious locations, detailing them would be a good idea. Consulting photographs, I added photoetch ladders and hatches. I cut small pieces of strip plastic for the periscopes, and used CA glue to make blast bags. Be sure to check photographs for the correct camouflage scheme for each turret - each one was unique. The blast bags on Hancock were dark gray, so I used Humbrol Matt 27 (Sea Grey) to color them (Figure 12). 20mm guns: You have two choices to improve the 20mm guns. The best choice is to purchase an aftermarket photoetch set (I prefer Corsair Armada's set, but several others are also excellent). However, one complaint that surfaces routinely in Letters to the Editor and chat rooms is the unwillingness of some to use photoetch pieces. Since the kit guns were not bad, I decided to make my own shields. I used Evergreen 0.005" sheet styrene (9009C), a metal straight edge and a sharp single-edged razor blade to cut out strips 2.5 mm wide. Cut every 2 mm for making two 1.25 x 2 mm shields. I used a razor blade to cut out a notch in the center of each shield, a very tedious process. I cut out as many as I could in several sittings. The Hancock had 57 20mm guns. I chose the best-looking shields and glued them to the guns on the sprues (much easier to paint that way too). Check reference photos, and you will find that each gun matched the camouflage color behind it. The insides of shields were painted the same as the camouflage color on Hancock. The finished 20mm guns looked acceptable and not much different from photoetched parts, and cost less. However, one needs good eyesight and patience to make them by hand (Figure 13). 40mm guns: Again, like the 20mm guns, the kit guns and mounts were close to scale. 40mm photoetched or aftermarket resin pieces are hard to come by and would cost almost as much as the kit to replace all eleven. So I assembled the kit 40mm gun mounts and then made my own shields from the same Evergreen sheet styrene as the 20mm shields came from. Cut the sheet into 2.5 mm wide strips. Each 40mm mount had three pieces - one 6 mm long (the face) and two 2 mm long (the sides). Using a mount as a template, cut out notches for the guns and after test fitting, use that piece as a template for the other faces. The face shield attached to the base, and the sides attached to the face (Figure 14). The completed 40mm mounts looked acceptable, and much more accurate than what the kit recommended. I painted the bases and insides of shields Deck Blue (20B) and the guns and outside of shields the same color as the adjacent camouflage. The drafting pen was used to blacken the springs and ammunition chute openings, and barrel tips. Build three black mounts (bow, bridge, aft port quarter), three Ocean Gray mounts (stern and two on port forward quarter), and five Light Gray mounts (two on bridge, one bow, one stern and one on the port forward quarter). Photographs easily show the right colors for each mount. Photographs of the flight deck showed the usual notches over the port 40mm mounts. I cut out the forward notch, but completely forgot about the aft notch. These were filled in during Hancock's post-kamikaze refit. Interestingly, Trumpeter also forgot these notches in their 1/350 scale carrier kits. Aircraft Hancock carried 101 aircraft on October 20-25, 1944. There were 37 F6F5 Hellcats, 4 F6F5N Hellcats, 30 SB2C3 Helldivers, 12 SB2C3E Helldivers, and 18 TB1MC aircraft from VF-7, VB-7 and VT-7 squadrons, respectively. At this scale, the F6F5Ns and SB2C3Es were not distinguishable from their regular counterparts. The kit contained 9 aircraft each, with wings extended, molded in clear plastic. The detail and scale appearance of these planes were better than other kits. Since I wanted to depict my Hancock launching aircraft, and since Helldivers were the most numerous aircraft on Hancock, and I had a good number of Helldivers on hand from other kits, and since making 101 tiny planes would drive me crazy (and delay this review), I decided to build a deckload of Helldivers, and leave the other aircraft types off for the time being. I scrounged other carrier kits and local hobby shops to come up with additional aircraft. Nine Helldivers came from this Trumpeter kit, 4 from the USN carrier aircraft set (Hasegawa 100U), 10 from two Hasegawa Ticonderoga kits, 5 from the Hasegawa Essex kit, and 6 clear Helldivers with folded wing options from the Dragon (DML) 7056 Hancock kit. To start, paint the underside of each cockpit area of the clear plastic aircraft with an interior green color - I used ModelMaster FS 34151 Interior Green enamel. At this stage of the war (late 1944), USN aircraft paint schemes were changing from the tricolor scheme started in 1943 to all glossy Dark Sea Blue. Thus, I painted about half of the Helldivers in the tricolor scheme - Light Gray 5L for undersides of fuselage and wings up to the folding point, ModelMaster acrylic 4240 5-S Sea Blue for the underside of wings outside folding points and fuselage panels, and Polly Scale acrylic 505338 Weather Deck Blue 20-B (36076) for the dark blue on upper surfaces, and for the entire aircraft that were glossy dark sea blue. For aircraft that were not molded in clear plastic, cockpits were painted silver (Humbrol 11 enamel). I also added main landing gear to the Helldivers. Some aircraft landing gear were completely scratchbuilt, and some were a combination of reshaped kit peglegs with photoetch (Gold Medal Models Aircraft set 700-18) and some were completely photoetch. All had tires cut from slices of plastic rod (like a salami). Scratchbuilt gear used stretched sprue for the legs, and thin Evergreen sheet for the doors. The wheel well areas, landing gear struts and backs of landing gear doors were painted ModelMaster FS34151 Interior Green. Tires were painted Floquil Weathered Black. The photoetched landing gear doors looked the best, but even without a photoetched detail set, scratchbuilt landing gear and doors looked fine in this scale. Gold Medal Models photoetched propellers from two Carrier Aircraft sets (700-18) for Helldivers were used, but after they ran out, I cannibalized F4U Corsair 4-bladed props, cut back slightly with fingernail clippers. I cut tiny pieces of stretched sprue for some prop spinners, and cut off prop spinners and reattached them from those that had them to begin with. Some had spinners made from cut pegleg landing gear. Spinners were painted 5L. Fortunately, Helldivers had retractable tailhooks, so these were not applied. Each type of Helldiver had little pegs for the tailwheel, which were left alone. Decals for US national insignia and tail numbers were added from the Trumpeter kit decal sheet. White numerals for tail numbers were used, ranging randomly from 6 to 112. Insignia were applied on each side of the aft fuselage under the gunner/observer glass, and on the upper left and lower right wings. In 1944, aircraft from each carrier painted a unique symbol on the rudders. For Hancock, the symbol was the Greek letter omega (that looked like a horseshoe with open side up) at the top of the rudder. This was simply too small to paint and was not visible except at close range, so I left them off. This way I can use the aircraft for any USN carrier of this time period. For some aircraft, a coat of Future acrylic floor wax was painted over the area where each decal was to be located. Solvaset was used to help settle the decals. After decals were dry, another coat of Future was painted over the decals to seal them. Some aircraft skipped the first Future coat since Solvaset application worked well to set the decals. The Dragon aircraft were smaller than other kits' aircraft, and the fuselage insignia were a tight fit. Entire aircraft (except for the glass areas) were painted with Polly S acrylic clear flat paint, even the glossy dark sea blue aircraft - they simply looked better with a flat finish. Weathered Black was used to paint the front engine and props, and exhaust stubs (with a little exhaust stream on some, but not all aircraft). US carriers carried so many aircraft that they seldom extended the wings until right before takeoff. Picture after picture of US carriers (including the box art for this kit) showed deckloads of aircraft with folded wings. However, only the Dragon planes had a folded wing option. I decided to make my own folded wings from the extended wing aircraft, another good reason to use Helldivers, since their wings folded up, and had a straight edge. Simply use a razor blade or X-Acto knife to score the underside of each wing just outboard of the landing gear. Then carefully bend the wings upward until the plastic breaks, but leaves the paint or some plastic remaining to keep the wing attached. You will probably have to glue the wingtips together, otherwise they tend to drop. The internal wing areas were painted with Interior Green. Thus, Helldivers from any source can be easily converted into folded wing appearance, which allows a more accurate model (Figure 15). Other aircraft (Hellcats and Avengers) were not used for this kit, since 34 Helldivers filled up most of the flight deck. OK, 34 is not the full compliment of Hancock Helldivers, but their numbers were quickly reduced from attrition due to accidents and enemy action, so 34 is close enough. The Hellcats and Avengers were already flown off my Hancock. The 34 Helldivers took almost three months to construct, along with partial progress on Hellcats and Avengers. Finishing Touches A white pastel pencil was used to lighten up the flight deck, using perpendicular strokes. The flight deck numbers were dulled with the pastel pencil. Humbrol 114 Red Brown enamel was drybrushed on the flight deck to simulate worn off paint revealing the wood deck color. Weathered Black was applied to simulate tire sreaks. Photos showed long streaks as well as short ones. Floquil Rust enamel was drybrushed to the hull to simulate corrosion, and some Weathered Black was also used here and there to simulate weathering and stains. The carrier was oversprayed with Testors Dull Cote Clear Flat, being careful to use several light coats and getting under the overhangs. I did not paint the water diorama included in the kit, although it would be a good idea to drybrush some white for foam and wake. Since I prefer flexibility of portraying my models, I did not glue the aircraft to the flight deck, so they can be repositioned, removed or used for another carrier. The finished kit, after the extensive modifications, looks close to the real appearance of Hancock in late 1944. If one wanted to go further, crew can be added, along with stuffing aircraft into the hangar deck. I opted to forego this extra detailing. Figures 16-24 show the finished model with her deckload of Helldivers ready for takeoff. Conclusion Building this kit was a lot worse than expected from the First Look Review. There are ugly longitudinal seams along the hull sides that need to be filled, and some fit problems around the flight deck that will need to be filled with putty or plastic strips. Most of the 20mm gun galleries need to be deepened, as they are not deep enough to hold the 20mm guns. The bridge was very crude and simply too simple to qualify as belonging to a US Navy Essex-class carrier. Out of the box, this kit would look rather plain and featureless, even with a deckload of aircraft (of which only a measly number was supplied anyway). The camouflage scheme was facilitated by the use of Gator's Paint Mask, which can be re-used - patterns for other carriers and ships are available. Because of the plainness of the kit, I decided in the middle of building to detail the kit to bring it up to current standards. Aftermarket photoetched sets from Gold Medal Models had enough of everything needed for this kit, and greatly improved the look of the carrier, especially the railings. Keep in mind that other excellent photoetched sets for USN carriers and aircraft from other companies are available - I simply had these in hand from years of collecting. Instead of using aftermarket photoetch sets for the 20mm guns and 40mm guns/shields, I opted to scratch-build all these shields, which is less expensive, but a lot more time consuming. Mostly, I wanted to show that some detailing can be done without resorting to photoetch sets. Likewise, the 5in turrets needed a lot of attention to make them look right, since they were highly visible. The bridge was perhaps the section that benefited most from detailing. Photoetched radars were a big improvement, but all the other pipes and platforms were scratchbuilt from pieces of plastic and brass rod. This shows the importance of having good reference materials available (see bibliography below). Resources from the web could be sufficient on their own, and are free of charge, but I found the Floating Drydock CD (and out-of-print book) indispensable, and well worth its minor investment. Good points of the Trumpeter kit are a full-length, highly detailed flight deck without any seams, guns that are close to scale, and the right shape and size of the ship and its major fittings. The aircraft are excellent - wish they had more. This kit is not recommended for beginners, and needs some research and significant work to represent the Hancock in its dazzle camouflage, Ms3-3a 1944 to April 1945 guise. Trumpeter still has some mistakes to iron out with long-bow Essex-class carrier kits before they can be recommended. Additional Materials Used The Floating Drydock, Camouflage 2 Fleet Carriers CD, Order #CAMO2 ($12.95) www.floatingdrydock.com/camo.htm Gator's Paint Masks, USS Essex class MS 32/3a, 1/700 pattern ($7.00) www.gatorsmask.com Gold Medal Models, World War Two USN Carrier Set 700-7 ($12). NOTE: I used the 1990s version. GMM has reissued this set, and it has mast yardarms and better radars than the original set ($14). www.goldmm.com Koh-I-Noor, Radiograph Pen, 0.30mm, 88 Main Street, Bloomsbury, NJ, 08804 Evergreen Plastic Styrene (sheets, rods, strips) -the thinner and smaller the better Tamiya Putty, Basic Type, TAM87053, 32 g ($2) Brass rods (several fine diameters) Stretched sprue (for whip antennae and prop hubs) Hasegawa Late WW2 USN Carrier Aircraft set 100U Gold Medal Models, World War 2 Carrier Aircraft Parts 700-18 ($7) - 2 sets Pacific Front Hobbies (most aftermarket kits, sets, paints and supplies) www.pacificfront.com Model Railroad chain - from local hobby stores Pastel pencil, White - from local art stores Walther's Solvaset Decal Setting Solution - from local hobby stores Cyanoacrylate glues (medium and thick) - from local hobby stores Paints: Floquil 110017 Weathered Black (for black anywhere and hull pattern) Floquil 110073 Rust (for hull weathering) Future Acrylic Floor Wax (for aircraft and flight deck number decals) Humbrol 11 Silver (enamel) (for aircraft cockpits) Humbrol Matt 27 Grey (enamel) (for 5in twin turret blast bags) Humbrol Matt 63 Sand (enamel) (for inside of lifeboat) Humbrol 114 Red Brown (enamel) (for flight deck wood color) ModelMaster 4245 Light Gray 5-L (for hull, guns, undersides of decks and aircraft) ModelMaster 4240 Sea Blue 5-S (for medium blue color on aircraft) Polly-S FS36173 Ocean Gray 5-O (for hull pattern) Polly-S 505338 FS36076 Weather Deck Blue 20-B (for dark blue on aircraft) Polly-S Clear Flat (for aircraft) Testors 1260 Dull Coat Flat Clear spray can (enamel) White Ensign Model WEM CC US10 (Deck Blue 20) (enamel for horizontal decks) White Ensign Model WEM CC 21 (Flight Deck Stain 21, mid-war) (enamel for flight deck, elevators)

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