Rigging Aircraft Antenna Wires

By  Michael Novosad, IPMS# 36721

I do not have any photos for this how to. I created this document last year for our local club newsletter as a result of one of the other members failed efforts at using sprue for antennae, and we do not have the capability to include photos in the newsletter. I have included three images from a Tamiya Betty that used this method. One image shows the vertical stabilizer attachment point, another shows the run of the antenna from the tail to the nose, and the last image shows the multiple connections at the canopy. This is certainly not a step-by-step, but does show the end product. During the November meeting, one of the club members acknowledged that he was less than successful with the installation of the antennae on a model that he had presented that evening. Stretched sprue had been used, and according to the builder several attempts were made before he completed the model. The initial efforts resulted in sagging lines that were unacceptable to the builder. It was noted that in real life the actual antenna sagged noticeably. I found that stretched sprue is brittle and (for me) often too difficult to work with. With time I noted that sprue would separate from one of its connection points. For the past year or so, I have been using invisible thread and have been quite satisfied with the results. It does require some planning, effort and patience to achieve a taut installation. Here is the process and materials that I use. There are three connection points, and the length is in excess of 12". This installation is tight and free from sagging. I have two products that I use. The first product is Gudebrod Champion Invisible Cord (nylon monofilament bead cord) .254 mm/.010 in., in a 54.7 yard spool. The other product is transparent nylon by Coats and Clark. This material is .004" diameter and comes on a 300 yard spool. I use the former for the 1/48th scale models, and the latter would seem in scale for 1/72nd scale models. The cord that I have is clear, but a grey tone can also be purchased at a craft store. First the tools and materials required: · Invisible thread (see above) · Elmer's White Glue. · Superglue (liquid) and accelerator. · Tweezers. · Cuticle scissors. · Fingernail clippers. · Round toothpicks. · Superglue applicator (A common sewing needle with point firmly imbedded in a handle of some sort and the end of the eye cut off). · Keen eyes and a steady hand. I normally start the installation of the antenna at the vertical stabilizer. The kit may have a mast on the stabilizer, or a "port" may be required in the leading edge or top. If a port is required, before the fuselage halves are cemented together, I will sandwich a small drill bit between the two surfaces of the stabilizer, pinch the parts together with my fingers and twist the bit until shallow trenches are created on each side of the stabilizer. When the parts are later cemented together the same drill bit is inserted at that location and the cavity is reamed out. You now have a deep opening for the start of the antenna installation that will occur as a finishing touch. Whether you are dealing with a mast or port on the stabilizer the methods are pretty much the same. Cut a length of invisible thread as much as 6" longer than you will need for the antenna. Dip one end (tip) of the thread in white glue and insert into the port or place on the tip of the mast. The mast installation can be a bit trying, especially if the thread has memory and lays out in a loose coil. Just take your time and drape the coil forward of the installation point. With care the very tip of the thread will attach to the tip of the mast, and the white glue will become tacky, holding the thread in place. You want to take care not to have to trim the cord at the stabilizer, (this is really easier than it sounds). Allow the white glue to set up for a hour. After the white glue has cured, apply a small drop of superglue to the connection point to reinforce the connection. The use of the accelerator at this point is strictly optional. If a tension spring or cone-shaped insulators (Luftwaffe aircraft) are required, now is the time to install them using your keen eye and steady hands attachments. I personally have found that when threading the cord through the tension spring (light bulb filament), a dark background (use a sheet of black or dark blue construction paper) will help ease this task. Leave these accessories loose on the cord: you will fix them in place later. Once the accessories are strung on the cord, the real fun begins! Here, the front end of the antenna wire may attach to a mast or a port in the fuselage side. We must assume that mast is a sturdy installation, and/or the port attachment point has been previously drilled out. Fill the superglue applicator, and have the accelerator at the ready. The accelerator I use is applied with a small squeeze bulb, so I will fill that with accelerator and lay it nearby on the work surface. Understand at this point in the effort, you only have two hands, but may need three to complete the rigging (??). Assuming you are normal (AKA right-handed), take the loose antenna end in you left hand and pull it taut. Move it until the line is touching the antenna mast at the exact point of connection (this may be the very tip of the mast, which becomes a bit of a balancing act). Apply the superglue with your right hand, followed by the accelerator. Almost immediately the superglue will set hard and the antenna wire is fixed in place. Leave everything set for at least a day: you will need that time to steady your eyes and hands. For the port installation you will need to trim the loose end of the cord about 1" longer than the final antenna length. Again, fill the superglue applicator and accelerator dispenser, and have them ready. Using tweezers insert the loose end of the cord into the port, and while holding the cord as taut as possible, apply the superglue ( the tweezers should be about 1/2" away from the port) on the cord, as close to the port as possible. The superglue should flow into the port on its own, but feel free to blow on it to assure that this flow occurs. Very carefully apply the accelerator to the connection point, taking care not to touch the model's surface. Once again, the end result is a tight antenna wire. I normally cut the excess cord from the mast with cuticle scissors. Looking closely you might see a small tag end of cord at the mast. Here, the fingernail clippers are used to eliminate the tag. If a small tag is still visible, the glowing end of a blown out wooden match could be used to reduce the tag end even further. Care must be exercised here to avoid melting the antenna. White glue can be used to fix the tension spring or cone insulators in place. "Ball" type insulators can be made with white glue applied with a round tooth pick. These blobs of glue, once dried can be painted white. Once completed, the antenna wire is free of sags and is really quire sturdy. This method is a true exercise in hand-eye coordination and patience; with practice it will result in a "perfect" and sturdy antenna installation.

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