MSRP: $60.00 USD Kit Observations:
One of my initial objectives in building this kit was easily recognized
when the model was completed: it was constructed “out of the box” with kit
decals. My only concessions toward “super detailing” are a few small
pieces of lead tape to act as seat belts. The box art is extremely
attractive and almost worth the “price of admission” in itself. My first
small observation: while a beautiful rendering, from my reading and
stories I heard from Lancaster pilots, a daylight scene such as depicted
would have been most unusual: these aircraft were painted in their
largely black schemes because they were almost entirely flown at night,
not during daylight missions seen in the box art scene. I suspect the
scene was chosen because of the difficulty of displaying the “S for Sugar”
aircraft in a typical nocturnal scene possibly lit from the underneath by
enemy searchlights. I initially began to pant awaiting this kit, in large
part because of its importance to the Allied effort and it is another
important part of the Godly scale.
Instruction Sheet:
There are six pages of reasonably easy to follow instructions, though
they contain a few errors, some inaccurate drawing details. I also found
the various marks that could be built from this kit to be a bit confusing,
which is not helped by either the very brief narrative or the overall
marking/color diagram which also contains at least one error. One example
that jumps out at me is the illustration in the sheet showing what appears
to me to be a pitot tube share shown on the instructions to be applied to
each wing top surface near the trailing edge. You will quickly see there
are two attachment holes on the wing tops. If you compare the pitot
shaped device numbers from the instruction sheet to the appropriate number
parts on the actual sprue trees, they are actually a mechanical aileron
actuator device (my word, having no idea what they are really called in
real life). The parts fit in place and while looking a bit weird (as do
many other aspects of British aeronautical designs and features), but had
you gone ahead and inserted the pitot tubes (which are contained on the
parts trees); you’d quickly find the drawings had given you a bum steer
(as they say in Montana). Hopefully the two small graphics below will
help convey this type of confusing instruction drawing. Another complaint
is there isn’t any reference to which or what types of antennae were
fitted to either of the Lancasters portrayed in this box. Since there
were many different antennae commonly displayed throughout the life of the
Lancaster, one is free to pick and choose, but some initial heading or
reference would be useful – at least to me. I am still disappointed that
Hasegawa hasn’t yet taken the time to provide commonly used paint
manufacturers color references, aside from one Japanese company. The
instructions aren’t useless, but certainly could benefit from more proof
work prior to printing and inclusion in the completed boxes.
Kit:
Overall the quality of the kit, its moldings and surface detail is
quite high though I encountered a few mold “push marks” (mostly in areas
which will not show normally). The kit provides approximately 220 parts
on approximately 21 sprue trees, which also a number of very small parts,
some of which were apparently whisked away by aliens from modeling desk.
There are sufficient unused parts to quickly indicate that Hasegawa has
plans to release at least one or more variants of the “Lanc” down the
road. The recent announcement of the “Damn Busters” version confirms this
and I fully anticipate one equipped with the famous “Tall Boy” bomb as
well. My kit has a couple of small “sink” marks as well along the top
sides of the fuselage; I saw them as small and probably not too great a
distraction and left them alone. At least one of our members, Don McBean,
says his model’s sink marks were severe and required filling. One again
though, this is a shame, especially when one considers the cost of this
kit.
The fit and arrangement of some of these parts (in my judgment) leaves
a lot to be desired. I was plagued with the many small side windows,
which even with very careful trimming seemed to not always fit exactly to
the intended fuselage hole and there are at least three sizes of these
tiny windows – a fact which isn’t easily apparent until they are carefully
laid out and can be seen side by side. Careful placement and arrangement
of these 26 windows is best well thought out before adhering them to the
fuselage, which allowed me two left over windowpanes. These little tiny
windows also should be carefully painted along their edges to avoid the
issue of “side lighting” when they are finally assembled to the fuselage
sides. I failed to do this and regret my oversight/laziness in this
essential step. A final comment about these tiny side windows: they are
of three sizes which may not be noticeable to the naked eye (I am not sure
about the “clothed eye” ?). I strongly recommend laying them out and
arranging them by size in a vertical column. They fit the window openings
pretty well, but I strongly recommend you dry fit them to insure you have
them in the correct openings. Should you put one of the smaller windows
in a larger opening, you’ll soon learn of your error, when you then seem
to have a window that is a bit larger than the remaining window opening.
Should you miss step in this daunting little task, you soon be SOL (and
that doesn’t really mean situation out of luck), if you get my drift. The
Lancaster has a good deal of clear canopy and turret detail, which is one
of the major identifying features of this large bomber and also one of the
daunting tasks in building this kit. While the parts, carefully trimmed,
all fit together well, combining them requires very careful application of
glue. I had several challenges and put mine together with the Testor’s
Clear Parts Cement, which is an excellent addition to the modeler’s
essential tool kit in my opinion. When I had completed my model, it looks
“o.k.” but is clearly not “competition grade.”
Some further advice about the turrets. Each is comprised of several
clear pieces, which require a minutes study, very careful separation from
the clear sprue trees, even more careful trimming and then dry-fitting.
Once you paint and install the guns and bases, the inside of the turrets
are inaccessible and subject to some potential problems, since the gun
inlets are still open to what I call “blow by” spraying or other debris.
I attempt to solve this by wetting (with water) and stuffing little pieces
of Kleenex into those holes, which blocks these inlets to “crud” getting
into the turret and is easily picked out or removed with a tweezer after
the turret is fully painted and over-sprayed. Since someone ask, here's
how I mask off the small and numerous frame marks on the turrets (and
other canopy areas). The clear pieces do provide for a rather well
delineated frame design work. This allows me to cut and place small
pieces of Bare Metal foil onto the surface. I then burnish the foil with
a toothpick point, then trim the frame outline with a sharp no. 11 blade,
followed by lifting one corner of each piece of foil to be removed (where
the frame shows and needs to be painted) and pick up and off the piece of
foil with my tweezer. When completed and following the final removal of
the foil mask, I use a small amount of the Blue Magic plastic polish on
the head of a Q-tip to lightly bull the clear area, followed by a bit more
buffing with another end of the Q-tip and or a clean piece of cotton rag
(this were all old t-shirts and underwear in general should go for their
afterlife in my opinion - some of you haven’t arrived at that judgment yet
had you?).
One other reminder, those pesky little square do-dads along the wing’s
leading edges are meant to be there. Don’t file or sand them off thinking
they are a byproduct of the kit production process. They represent cable
cutters built into the wings leading edge and were actually there, really!
I recently read a review of this kit by a good friend (and very
accomplished modeler) in the pages of Fine Scale Modeler – he thought it
was a great kit and saw/encountered none of the problems I mention here.
Hence, one needs to carefully consider the source of the review. I assume
the problems and hurdles mentioned here are the results of my own short
comings. But, I didn’t like some of what I found in the kit, especially
when one considers that this is almost a $60 kit. For example, I just do
not think the engine nacelles hang correctly as they came from the box and
spent a good deal of time looking for photos and references to see how
they should be positioned under the wings and try to get them into that
position. There simply isn’t any excuse for these issues in today's’
market. If Tamiya can get it right, why can this Japanese firm? I also
feel a bit more interior detail (both the flight deck area and especially
the very large, open bomb bay) would have a nice touch. Possibly some of
the many cottage industries “out there” will grace us with their offerings
down the road. If for no other reason, this will allow the Lancaster to a
$100 or more in value. I had to do a moderate amount of filling, using my
old standby 3M Brand Acryl-Blue filler and small amounts of Apoxie Clay
(which is much easier to work with around the very small openings and
where surface details need to be carefully preserved). Along with the
body filler, there was more sanding and re-scribing than I would like,
especially along the fuselage seems (top and bottom) and around the engine
nacelles and wing joint areas. Try though I might, I also couldn’t find a
combination of the nacelle halves that resulted in both the top and bottom
seems closely aligned or level. Again, it seems the nacelle halves were
designed by different engineers who apparently weren’t on speaking terms.
Inexcusable in any case in today’s engineering world.
Decals:
The decal sheet appears to be well done and provides the
decals/combinations for three different Lancasters, the best know probably
the “S” for Sugar (RAF # R5868) which has been so beautifully restored and
displayed at the RAF Bomber Command wing of the Royal Air Force Museum at
Hendon, just a short train trip west of London. This aircraft’s combat
service record, with three different squadrons and markings, included 137
operational sorties. An intriguing portion of the aircraft’s markings
while serving with the No. 467 Royal Australian Air Force flying from RAF
Waddington, was the infamous quotation from Herman Göring. Early during
the bomber offensive against Germany, the former Prussian WW I pilot (with
22 “kills” to his record and recipient of the Order Pour le Mérite – the
“Blue Max”) positively stated “no enemy plane will fly over the Reich
territory.” That was just one of his many notable errors in judgment.
My kit’s roundels were just ever so slightly off register, as you can
see from the completed kit. There are also a few missing decals for the
elevator markings shown in the instructions – or maybe the instructions
are just wrong?
Paints & Finish:
Another aspect of this model I enjoyed is that Italeri (probably
because of its corporate connection with the Testor’s Corporation) clearly
calls out its color references in Model Master references. Virtually the
entire kit has been finished in Model Master enamels, with a very small
amount of Humbrol and Winsor & Newton artist oils used for accent, shading
and weathering wash. I used diluted artist oils and odorless mineral
spirits (for weathering) and Ditzler automotive acrylic lacquer products
(namely Duracryl lacquer thinner (DTL 876), Clear finish (D 468) and
Ultra-Fill primer (PZA 43) and Testors Dullcote Lacquer finish (thinned
approximately 150% with DTL 876 thinner. I used Devcon 5-Minute Epoxy and
the Handibond Thick cyanoacrylate for most attachments and very small
parts. Because I used a well thinned gloss black for the basic Lancaster
finish, the kit decals went on very well, without the need for an initial
gloss coat. I used both the Micro Scale Micro Set (I wet the surface as I
slide the decal onto the surface) and Micro Sol solution and Tamiya Mr.
Mark Softner to later soften, snuggle and tighten the decals to the
surface prior to my final overcoat of Dullcote. The upper wing decals were
the easiest to hide with subsequent glossing and sanding and glossing.
The side and tail markings are quite a bit more challenging, since the
underlying surface has a considerable amount of raised surface detail.
Overall the kit decals are very well done (quality, color and options) and
aside from the very small amount of register I mentioned on the large
roundels, one doesn’t have to rush out and spend another $10 to $20 for
aftermarket decals – at least not for my interests.
As you can see, I am still working to achieve a reasonable weathering
for such a model, though I know I have a great deal yet to learn as to
colors and technique. It’s again not were I ultimately hope to achieve,
but moving a bit closer to my objective.
My Lancaster is completed as (I hope) it might have looked about the
spring of 1944 and as closely as I could get to the configuration of the
aircraft today at RAF Hendon. One serious point of contention though is
the interior color. Most references call out the interior of the
Lancasters as being basically black, though the Duxford and Hendon Museums
display the typical mix of “British Interior Green,” along with black and
gray instruments and faces. I had the opportunity to speak with several
ex-Canadian Lancaster crew members while visiting England in the late 80’s
and they told me their aircraft were typically painted “green” throughout
the interior. I thoroughly enjoy the British WW II color schemes and
found this kit a joy to paint, using the over semi-gloss black bottom and
sides with dark green and dark earth top side colors.
I was a bit shy of references for this project, though the three I had
were very helpful and informative. These include the wonderful and richly
illustrated The AVRO Lancaster, A Comprehensive Guide For The Modeler, by
Richard Franks, Number 4 in the SAM Publications’ Modelers Datafile
series. I am suspect of some of the drawings in this great book, but feel
that you can’t do much better for overall information on the Lancaster,
Manchester and Lincoln aircraft (all three of which are related in design
and covered within this 176 page softbound book. My second indispensable
guide was the small booklet, A Very Special Lancaster, A History of
LANCASTER Mk I R5868, by F. E. Dymond. This 32-page booklet is sold at
Hendon’s very well stocked bookstore and provides the best history I’ve
seen of this particular historic aircraft including a complete operational
mission listing. While not the greatest references, the AVRO Lancaster by
Bill Sweetman from Crown Publishers can’t be overlooked. This book (as in
the case of the other similar Crown publications) provides one more
inspiration to build the Lancaster kit. Rikyu Watanabe’s artwork is very
inspirational to me. Even though I’ve been warned about his technical
details and colors, the richness, size and sheer beauty of his artwork is
fantastic in my opinion.
List price on this kit is approximately $60. which I feel is a bit high
for the amount of material, engineering and “product” in this kit. I
purchased my over the internet from HobbyLand for approximately $48.00.
Summary:
If you are as interested in WW II aircraft as I am, you have to buy and
build this kit. It’s really light years ahead of the older Revell and
Airfix kits and helps fill that critical nitch; other than the name, there
is little similarity. In spite of the several “issues” I mentioned above,
this Lancaster looks and “feels” right to me from almost every aspect. It
seems a shame that with almost 7400 of these dependable bombers built by
and under license to AVRO there are so few survivor Lancasters today. As
much as I dread the prospect of doing another Lancaster (and the cost…..),
both the Damn Busters and bunker busting “tall boy” versions may just
force me to do it again….. Boy, are we modelers predicable or what? If
you long to model Britain’s greatest bomber of World War II, this Hasegawa
kit is where you want to direct your efforts. |