Updated: 13 hours 15 min ago
New kit prototype build of test shot-resin & 3-D printing USS Seawolf SSN 575, the US second nuclear submarine was built alongside of the first SSN, USS Nautilus in Electric Boat’s South Shipyard. Although built roughly at the same time, several external differences were apparent. The BQR-4A bow sonar in the lower bow of Nautilus, was moved to the upper bow on Seawolf. The sonar “windows” were initially individual rubber coating backed by thin steel (later replaced by a single, curved fiberglass window). The “step sail” similar to the contemporary “Guppy” conversion fleet submarines, allowed the fitting of a small, pressure cylinder conning tower in the sail itself. Moving the periscopes up allowed the submarine to be deeper in the water at periscope depth. Also modified from Nautilus, although less visible, was the stern. On Nautilus, the twin propellers were mounted directly on large, stern fins which fully enclosed the propeller shaft. Seawolf instead had smaller fins and an exposed section of the propeller shaft, with a bearing housing and support struts for the screws (See Seawolf 575 stern at 1956 launch photo). However, the biggest difference between Nautilus and Seawolf was the reactor. While Nautilus had the S2W (STR) pressurized water reactor, Seawolf was launched with the S2G (SIR) liquid sodium reactor. The sodium cooled, beryllium moderated reactor could operate at much higher temperatures and lower pressures than the S2W pressurized water reactor. This offered the possibility of generating superheated “dry” steam at significantly higher temperatures and greater thermal efficiencies. The sodium reactor pumps were electromagnetic, with no moving parts. The steam generators had a system of tubes within tubes, with the liquid sodium, and intermediate tube with a sodium potassium mix, and the last tube having the secondary loop water to generate superheated steam. The intermediate tubes kept the water and sodium from mixing, a highly undesirable event. In practice, however, the high temperature sodium proved highly corrosive to the stainless steel materials employed for the superheaters, and pinhole leaks in the heat exchanger forced the operation at reduced power and abandonment of the superheated steam loop. She was limited to using lower temperature saturated steam. Seawolf cruised for >20,000 nautical miles over 2 years with the liquid sodium reactor at 80% power. In late 1958, Seawolf returned to Electric Boat and the sodium reactor replaced by an S2Wa pressurized water reactor virtually identical to Nautilus. After operating in the 1960’s, Seawolf was converted to a NURO Special Projects platform with an extended hull plug (with special operations equipment) installed forward of the sail. The Model The model represents Seawolf in the early 1960’s. I was approached by Jon Warneke of Iron Shipwrights who was looking for candidate submarine models that had not yet been kitted in 1/350 scale. Jon and I exchanged numerous back and forth design details, with detail input also from Jacob Gunnarson, Jim Margerum, Jim Christley and David Grogan. The finished model shown in the photos is the prototype version that Jon sent me for assembly, which is all 3-D printed from his design files. There are minor (but important) differences in the finished kit, most notably in the bow sonar panels, a subtle revision in the sail sections blending, sail running lights relocated and the aft deck details revised, all updated based on the latest information. The final kit is a resin hull, generated from a 3-D masters rubber mold and all of the other model pieces are 9K 3-D prints. Many of the parts are provided in multiples (masts, propellers, propeller shafts, etc.) so these delicate items can be successfully removed even when “disaster strikes” on some tries (been there, did that). And then there is the “no questions asked” parts replacement policy at Iron Shipwrights. Kit available from Iron Shipwrights starting October 1. Seawolf launch photo of stern design, different from Nautilus. Prototype test shots of the build of the Seawolf model in 1/350 scale
Yes, that is right, this is being included in my 1/72 scale armor/vehicle collection because; despite being a civilian vehicle, it is a 1/72 scale Model A Ford. I only managed to get one semi-decent picture of this, despite numerous efforts for a clean, sharp shot. The base sort of helped get it this good. Here it is, the 1/72 scale Zebrano Ford Model A car: Built out of the box, it was a delicate little thing; it only measures an inch and a quarter long. Completed in early September it, now joins the collection of vehicles I have in 1/72 scale. Thanks for looking; comments are welcome.
Hey all! This was actually completed sometime in August, but here it is finally being posted. This is the ancient Airfix 1/76 scale Russian Zil SAM-2 transport truck.I built it all out of the box and will hopefully someday be added to my SAM-2 layout: Thank you for looking in, comments are welcome.
Just got back to the modeling bench. Started this one before we left on vacation. 37 days later we got back from a western U.S. (9 states) RV trip. I was desperate for a modeling fix! Glad S.H. came out with this kit. Much better than the Williams Bros kit. Definitely a unique aircraft. It was a leap forward in design in its day.
While doing the prep work (filling, filing, sanding, priming) on a resin figure for some point in the future I realized the supplied bow was not so great and I wanted to replace it. I thought about 3d printing one but my skills at CAD are limited to tinkercad and while that would work I figured it would be much quicker to whittle something out of stretched sprue, styrene sheet, a piece of hex stock for the tightening screw and a strip for the bow hair. I know it's a little simplistic but I think it will work OK.
HI ! I,m seeking these EDUARD 1/48 FIGURES SET , I have a list of stuff to trade from , EDUARD 1/48 WWI FRENCH AIRGROUP EDUARD 1/48 WWI GERMAN PERSONNEL EDUARD 1/48 WWII US NAVY 1942 EDUARD 1/48 WWII JAPENESE AIRFORCE Thanks in advance Jmarc
HI ! Here a project I have done in the past , it's an WWII BRITISH BICYCLE MBULANCE , Of course it,s an scratch project , if you like to view more pics, I have set-up a GOOGLE page for it, just follow this link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/vSNKmXE54gCsHz9K6 Enjoy ! Jmarc
HI ! Here another project I have done in the past , this is an Beaching gear for aircrafts , use on west cost of Canada , Of course this is an SCRATCHBUILT project ! If you like to view more pics I have set up a page on Google, Just follow this link : https://photos.app.goo.gl/3Jn8yornFYeyDa2J8 Enjoy ! Jmarc
I'm searching for the May/June 2000 issue of the Journal for the NASA M113 walkaround photos. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Don Mackay IPME# 11332.
HI ! Here another project I have done in the past , it's an SCRATCH SETAMPUNK LAWNMORE in 1/48 .. If you like to view more pic of it, I have set up a page for this project just this GOOGLE link : https://goo.gl/photos/LWy4CKWhnS7GEmDD9 Enjoy ! Jmarc
HI ! Here another project I have done in the past , this is an SCRATCH project of the WWII DRAZINE SKODA !, If you like to view more pics , judt follow this Google link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/1xPDTiyjAQmfTJSB8 Enjoy ! Jmarc
HI ! Here another project I have done in early 2000, this is the ANACONDA resin kit with some modification and addition , If you like to view more pics, I have set-up a Google page for this project , just follow this link : https://photos.app.goo.gl/TMUqLrc2ec89rYiv6 Enjoy ! Jmarc
I bought this "Total Boat" brand of clear resin with the UV flashlight on Amazon for about $25 to try making clear windows, as opposed to cutting and fitting clear plastic. I used a common hole punch to make the holes in the scrap plastic seen above. I then experimented with filling the holes with the resin, which doesn't harden until hit with the UV light. I found the following: 1) I covered some holes with one piece of clear Scotch tape and then simply poured the resin into the holes. I found the resin poured easily and the 2-3 air bubbles (if any) could be moved out of the way with a toothpick. I then shined the light on the poured side for 30secs or so, which set it. I then flipped it over and shined the light on it through the clear tape to further harden it. I removed the tape and tapped it with a blade to find it had set sufficiently hard. 2) I did the same thing next on some more holes, except I covered the holes with a piece of colored plastic tape (unclear). I poured the resin, hit it with the light, and it set just the same. I removed the colored tape from the other side and found the window had set sufficiently without needing to be hardened on the tape side. This is probably because the resin pour is relatively thin. Thicker resin pours would probably require longer light exposure and lighting the taped side. 3) In BOTH cases I found that the resin would pick up ANY slight wrinkle in the tape over the hole, so care needs to be sure the tape is clean and stretched taught over the holes. The tape can be slightly pressed out using a used eraser to create a slightly domed effect if desired. 4) I found you COULD sand the hardened resin (which was slightly bulged or domed) to get any wrinkles out, though it didn't want to polish back out, leaving it flat, but cloudy. However, using a toothpick to spread a VERY light coat of the resin over the flat resin and then hardening that overcoat brought the clearness right back. 5) I also used a toothpick to spread and fill the resin inside a few of the holes like you would if you were trying to fill it using Micro Crystal Klear. I found the resin is thick enough to allow this to be done, but it also tended to allow some excess to spill over the edges on BOTH sides of the hole unless it was done very carefully. This would work easier with smaller diameter holes than on these. Overall, THIS WILL BE MY GO-TO IN THE FUTURE FOR FILLING AND MAKING WINDOWS! Also, it makes for GREAT landing light lenses if you overfill the light housing slightly to make a domed light. It should also be perfect for making clear instrument glass on IPs. I believe it may also be tinted to make or fill position lights, though I've yet to try that. I highly recommend giving this stuff a try if you haven't yet done so! Gil
This is my build of the Academy 1/48 Spitfire FR. Mk.XIVe. I built it OOB aside from adding a seat harness and an acetate lens for the gunsight. I did replace the roundels and fin flashes with some Aeromaster decals, since the kit did not include the 1945 style upper wing roundels, which the markings should be. Otherwise, contrary to reputation, the Academy decals worked perfectly. The markings are for 451 Squadron at RAF Gatow near Berlin during the Allied occupation in 1945. I used Tamiya paints for the RAF Temperate Day Fighter scheme. Since this model was built for the CAF Museum at Falcon Field in Mesa AZ, as part of Phoenix IPMS project, I kept weathering to an absolute minimum. Thanks for looking, comments and critiques are welcomed.
All, I learned that a few days ago Gary Davis has passed away. One of the forum members on another forum was tied closely with Gary and announced it on the forum. It was a sudden ordeal as just 12 hours prior he had posted on the forum. Gary was a strong dirt track car enthusiast who possessed a grand ability for replicating these cars and has been a good friend of mine not only on this forum but in communities abroad. Aside from his modeling skillset, was also a very encouraging and pleasant person to interact with on the modeling forums and I consider myself blessed to have known him. I thought everybody who knew Gary here should know of his passing. He will definitely be missed. His latestcompleted build just a couple of weeks ago was the Marty Robbins '34 Ford Modified that he finished in a Group Build that I was running elsewhere. Truly a gifted and talented modeler and a great friend of mine for the last 10 years.